Southwest Uganda

January 14 - 21, 2017

In the wee morning hours of January 14th we landed at Kigale Airport; back in Eastern Africa.  We slept for a few hours before getting picked up by Divine, a friendly and ambitious Rwandan woman who volunteers for Shooting Touch (an NGO promoting education and leadership through basketball).  We headed north through the winding roads of the mountainous country to cross the most south-western border into Uganda.  Throughout the two-and-a-half-hour ride Divine shared some of the history and culture of Rwanda.  She was not even born at the time of the Rwandan genocide but was well informed, explaining the country's Genocide Memorial Day on April 7th and the week following, where the community discusses the events to ensure that it will never happen again.

As we neared the border we were greeted with gorgeous views of three large volcanic peaks - Gahinga, Muhabura, and Sabinyo - rising high in the sky, serving as a natural barrier between Rwanda and Uganda.  At the border we were picked up by Michael, a wonderful and attentive driver who took care of us for the rest of the week in south-western Uganda.  If anyone needs a driver in the area, contact me and I would be happy to provide his contact info - highly recommended.  After a month of constantly figuring out exchange rates and new languages, it was great to be back in a country which is so familiar.

Kisoro District Hospital, 2011

The nearest town to the border is Kisoro, which holds a special place in my heart because I was here as a fourth-year medical student. Twice yearly Dr. Jerry Paccione from Albert Einstein College of Medicine brings a group of four to six students to Kisoro to work in the district hospital and also pairs them with local village health workers on education projects in the community through the Doctors for Global Health NGO.  I was fortunate enough to participate in one of these trips.  The memories of my time here came flooding back: the restaurants where our group had many a night out, the veranda where we celebrated match day for residency, and the cute cafe called The Coffee Pot where a lovely German woman bakes amazing cakes, including one for my Kisoro bachelorette party in 2011!  

We settled in at the Virunga Backpacker Lodge and quickly set off for an afternoon hike to Lake Mutanda.  I had taken the trek many times during my previous stay in Kisoro, but six years having passed since the last hike made finding the paths a bit harder.  Along the way groups of kids would help to guide us if we veered off track, then asking for a pen, cookies, our water bottles, or anything else they thought we might have.  At times the hills would ring out with tiny voices shouting "Muzungu!" from all directions.

That evening we had a lovely dinner at Traveller's Rest, where the famous primatologist Dian Fossey made her second home.  During happy hour we began talking with a couple who were originally from Poland and now living in Chicago.  We joined them for dinner along with their travel guide, hailing from our own Mbale. He was shocked when we began speaking with him in his native Lumasaba language. 

The next day we were up before the sun to set out on an eight hour hike of Mount Sabinyo.  This is one of my all-time favorite hikes: you pass through thick bamboo forests with the occasional sound of golden monkeys overhead, moving on to trees covered with furry moss, and on to varied terrain as you continue on to each subsequent peak.  There are three peaks in total, the last of which requires you to climb up a series of ladders to maneuver the steep sides and reach the top where the Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda, and Uganda meet.  After a hikers' lunch at the top, it was time to reverse the trek, heading down, up, down, up, and finally down again to reach the base of the mountain.

There wasn't much time to rest as we made it back to Kisoro, grabbed our gear, and went north to Bwindi Impenetrable Forrest. Upon arriving at Rushaga Gorilla Camp just after sunset we realized that we had the entire lodge to ourselves - such luxury!  January 16th we celebrated my turning thirty-three by trekking to find the Eastern Mountain Gorillas!  We were designated to track the Bweza gorilla family, alongside a lovely couple from Australia and two hilarious travel guides from Adventrue, a Polish tour agency.  The guys, fully equipped with serious cameras and recording devices, were researching and gathering footage to promote an upcoming trip to Uganda for their clients.

The trek to see gorillas can vary based on which gorilla family you are assigned to, where the family has been found, and their movements throughout the day.  The trail to reach the Bweza family was anything but flat, with lots of peaks and valleys throughout the lush surroundings.  Bwindi is known as the Impenetrable Forest for a reason, as there are no permanent trails.  There are paths that are well delineated and others where the guide has to cut down branches with his machete to make it possible to pass.  After an hour and a half of hiking, we spotted a gorilla high in the trees.  We then went into the very thick brush to gain a closer perspective of the beautiful creatures. 

You might be asking yourself, "How is it possible to be so close to these wild animals?"  In order to research and better understand the gorillas, several families in different areas of the park have been habituated, becoming used to the presence of humans.  This process can take several years but once habituated, the gorillas don't mind respectful human presence. However, to minimize exposure, the families being tracked are rotated and the time spent with them is limited to one hour with the majestic creatures.  

While we were watching one of the male silverback gorillas munch on some leaves, a female who was close to us decided she wanted to move to another area nearby.  We were in her way so she gave an indication of wanting to move, then started going her way whether we were there or not. As we made ourselves small and ducked out of the way (general rule of thumb - do not run, whatever you do) she pushed passed us, as if we weren't there, grazing my leg. Everyone was fine, and I was touched by a gorilla - awesome!

As we continued moving to see more of the family, the gentleman from Australia got down on one knee and proposed to his girlfriend right in front of a large gorilla.  The tour guides' cameras swung around, capturing the moment with the gorilla in the background.  Talk about an engagement story.  For those of you wondering, she said yes!  After that moment of excitement we watched in awe as two young gorillas played and fought each other in the dirt, leaves, and on top of the sleeping adults.  Intermittently throughout their playing the young ones would show each other their strength by pounding their chest before lunging at the other to wrestle some more.

As our time was nearing the end, we noticed another large silver back enjoying some leaves.  One of the infants decided he had enough wrestling and swung down through the trees to join the feast.  It was a wonderful experience with such rare and impressive creatures.  Our hike back was filled with excited chatter, so we invited everyone to our camp for a drink and to review some of the photos, especially of the impromptu engagement photo shoot.  It was a lovely afternoon sitting on the veranda overlooking the heavy forest, making new friends, and reliving the incredible morning.  The Polish tour guides decided our lodge was much more cozy than their backpacker hostel so theymoved camps to join us for a fabulous birthday dinner at the lodge.

In the morning we left the beautiful Bwindi, slowly making our way east to Lake Bunyoni, believed to be the deepest lake in Uganda and second deepest in Africa after Lake Tanganyika.  Staying at the Bunyoni Overland Lodge, we had a gorgeous view of the lake and plenty of spaces to hide out and enjoy reading while overlooking the lake.  As the afternoon became slightly cooler, we hiked up to the Arcadia Lodge for a fantastic view of the island-filled lake.  The evening was spent enjoying the serene setting and watching the sun set behind the Mgahinga mountains in the far distance.

The following day we set off from the dock in a traditional hollowed-out acacia tree canoe to traverse the lake with Edirisa Tours.  Compared to fiberglass or plastic canoes, the traditional tree variety is incredibly heavy and requires a significant amount of effort to move.  After cruising the lake for a bit, we docked at one of the islands and hiked up the ridge, through a lakeside village, past the elementary school still closed for the Christmas holiday break, then on to a small bar, the walls of which were made of wood and filled in with bricks of dung and mud, to enjoy ubushera with some locals in the village.  Ubushera is a traditional fermented drink made of sorghum flour and ash that is very popular in the southwest of Uganda, much more so than in the east; definitely not sweet, and just a touch sour.  

The next stop was a traditional herbalist.  While he was organizing the local medicinal plants, children were wandering in the yard, seeing what the strange looking people were up to.  Once the kids were comfortable, they were in our laps, singing village songs.  It was then time for the lecture about the different plants and their preparations to cure common ailments.  It is always intriguing as a physician to see these traditional medicines, as much of our modern medicine is based on plant-derived compounds found in nature.  A short distance down the road, a woman who makes and sells crafts as a living taught us how to make bracelets out of local dyes and papyrus, all-the-while tightly sewing a small basket out of dried grass.  Once we were back on the water in the acacia tree canoe, we slowly made our way around a few islands, each with its own history and story, to arrive back at our lodge.  We took advantage of the waterfront tables to enjoy a lovely afternoon reading lakeside.

On January 19th we traveled from the lake to Mbarara, where we met up with fellow GHSP volunteers Sara, Laura, and Mark.  We enjoyed catching up on their travels over the break, and marveling at the fact that Dennis and I had a similar trip to Laura and Mark, only in reverse.  The rest of the afternoon was spent on a long drive to Kampala.  After taking care of some Peace Corps business for a couple of days, it was finally time to head home.  We hopped on the Y.Y. bus with music videos entertaining and blaring for the five hour drive from Kampala to Mbale.  As we picked up all of the luggage we had carried over the six weeks, we were glad to be back in our home away from home.  We were even greeted by several locals saying "welcome back" as we carried our gear through the streets.  Once home, it was time to prepare for the next adventure: teaching the second semester of students.

Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, and a gorgeous sunset over Namibia

January 5 - 13, 2017

Where the Chobe River intersects with the Zambezi River in Southern Africa, there is a confluence of four countries: Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia.  Here you will also find a wealth of natural treasures, from the incredible Victoria falls shared by Zambia and Zimbabwe, to animals galore in Chobe National Park in Botswana near the border to Namibia.

Dennis and I arrived to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe on the afternoon of January 5th.  The town is a tourist-centered area within walking distance of the falls.  As soon as we were settled into the N1 Hotel in town (recommended for budget travelers), we set off for afternoon high tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel.  The hotel was built in 1904, and the decor has not changed since.  Walking in to the hotel feels as if you have stepped back in time to colonial Rhodesia, the British territory encompassing present day Zambia and Zimbabwe and the eponym of the imperialist Cecil Rhodes, whose dream was to build a "Cape to Cairo" railway linking northern and southern Africa.  Part of this ambition included construction of the Victoria Falls bridge, which Rhodes instructed to be built "across the Zambezi where the trains, as they pass, will catch the spray of the Falls."  The colonial era loses its charm after reading books such as "King Leopold's Ghost" by Adam Hochschild, which details the extreme abuses and exploitation of the natives by the "explorers" and their royal benefactors.  As a modern day tourist, however, the hotel offers magnificent views of the bridge and the mist created from the thundering falls as it rises up above the gorge.  


January 6th was an adventurous day, starting with Dennis jumping off of solid ground for a 70 meter / 230 foot freefall during a gorge swing over the roaring Zambezi river.  I was very "happy" (read: petrified) to watch and snap photos on the side; no additional adrenaline rush needed.  The adventure activities take place near the Look-Out Cafe, situated high above the gorge.  After a relaxing lunch and reading amongst the green, we set off across the border to Zambia for the next exploit - swimming in Devil's Pool!

The short drive over the border brought us to the Royal Livingstone Hotel, a luxurious venue where former U.S. presidents have stayed during trips to Zambia.  A boat took us from the launch to Livingstone Island, where the famous missionary explorer David Livingstone first saw the falls. Once the group was dressed up in swimming gear, we braved the waters of the Zambezi to reach a natural pool situated atop the falls before the water plunges down 100 meters.  Fun fact that we discovered once in the pool: there are small fish that reside in the pool and like to bite your toes.  While the waters are moving past you over the edge of the pool, I found myself kicking just enough to keep the little fish bites at bay while simultaneously ensuring I would not propel myself over the edge.  Absolutely exhilarating experience.  Our swim back to the island included a magnificent view of the sky bursting with clouds from the humidity.  Dennis and I lingered in the waters for a bit longer to enjoy the serenity and astounding beauty.  On the island we enjoyed high tea yet again, except instead of tea we were served the refreshing Pimm's Cup drink while chatting with our fellow swimmers, hailing from the U.S., U.K., and Mexico.  

We were able to explore the full length of the falls the next day, first touring the Zimbabwe side of the rapids with a knowledgeable guide and lovely couple from the U.K., refueling with lunch and a Pimm's Cup at the Victoria Falls Hotel, then walking over to Zambia to marvel at the falls from the Knife's Edge buttress.  The falls span 1,708 meters, or over one mile in length and a vertical drop of 80 meters at the western Devil's Cataract to 108 meters at the center.  Spectacular.

That evening we cruised the Zambezi on a boat tour, enjoying the breeze on the warm day.  On board we met a lovely couple from Moscow whom Dennis impressed with his Russian, and the conversation later including more English for my sake all while admiring the birds, hippos, and crocodiles gracing the waterway.  That evening we enjoyed a gamey twist on Spanish faire at Lola's Tapas & Bar, with dishes including zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, impala, and, of course, sangria to wash it all down.  

On Sunday, January 8th we drove for an hour to cross the border into Botswana and on to the town of Kasane, located just outside Chobe National Park.  Of note, this day would have been my dad's 57th birthday.  I don't think he would have ever imagined that one day I would be crossing borders and traversing southern Africa on his birthday.  After tucking in to the Old House, a cute B&B on the Chobe waterfront, we enjoyed a boat tour on the river that divides Botswana from Namibia, watching hippos seemingly wearing grass skirts grazing and herds of elephants migrating to their much loved water.  A good way to celebrate the day.


Monday morning was an early start to explore Chobe National Park.  Before we even reached the gates we were greeted by a herd of elephants, with two juveniles testing each others' strength.  Once in the park, all the vehicles took off in one direction.  We followed suit and soon were viewing a leopard lounging in the trees immediately in front of us.  An amazing and lucky find!  

Throughout the day we saw several large troops of baboons, with the male calling out from the treetops to the rest of the troop below.  Being on a day-long drive through the park, when the animals took shelter in the shade from the heat of the day, we were able to admire the colorful flora and fauna of the lush green park, including the African bee eater bird, three lionesses, a family of warthogs, a giraffe in its awkward bend to the ground for water, as well as two young male giraffes fighting to test their power and might.  In the later afternoon we again encountered one of the lionesses we spotted earlier calling out to her hidden away cubs, letting them know that she was returning to the den.  We didn't find the cubs, but while in pursuit of the lioness we noticed a tree branch off in the distance with some oddly shaped branches, only to discover through the binoculars that it was in fact a leopard fast asleep in the trees!

Sleeping leopards aside, the highlight for me was in the evening hours when we encountered one of the largest herds of elephants we had ever seen - we were surrounded by 56 elephants scattered throughout the hillside.  With so many elephants it is incredible to experience the social dynamics of the species.  From the low grumble used to communicate to each other, the young ones playing, fighting, or even mock charging the vehicle, and to nature's drive to move itself forward with two bulls in estrus competing for the young female also in estrus.  Of note, Botswana is known for its enormous elephant population, with 130,000 elephants estimated in the country of 2 million, or 1 elephant per 15 people.  

That evening back at our B&B, the sky flashed a brilliant red, pink, amber, and variations of blue sky as the sun set across the Chobe River and over Namibia on the horizon.  A perfect end to the day. 

January 10th we were off to Maun, with just a short flight from Kasane.  Maun is the main jumping off point for exploring the Okavango Delta, marshlands teaming with beautiful water lilies in the waterways and herds of animals grazing on the surrounding lands.  That evening we checked into The Old Bridge Backpackers, with a bar-at-the-end-of-the-world feel. Our accomodations for the next few days consisited of a perma-tent located just off of the small river, complete with an open-air private bathroom offering an unobstructed view of the stars in the sky.  In the common area, with the sand underfoot and the pool table always lively, there was a chicken and two resident cats, one of which decided to make Dennis his new best friend.

Mother nature decided to show us what rainy season in Botswana really means by dumping significant amounts of rain overnight, continuing into the morning.  Despite the downpour, we decided to stick with our original plan of cruising the delta in a mokoro, a shallow dugout canoe, with a guide working to propel us along the shallow water using a ngashi pole.  We floated along, cold and wet, for an hour before the rain stopped and the sky slowly opened up to reveal its blue.  

Along the route, we pulled up on land and hiked on foot to see beautiful herds of impala, wildebeest, and zebra grazing so close in the grass.  To see the animals on foot with nothing between you and them is a very raw experience.  When animals were not in our immediate surroundings, our guide was pointing out the plants and their traditional medicinal uses, as well as burrow holes made by anteaters and later taken over by other wildlife.


Back at the camp we had a lively sunset dinner conversation with a former Peace Corps Volunteer in Botswana in the 1970s, who regaled us with stories of the area from his service, the incredible changes that had taken place, the people that he had worked with (and when we did a google search, many of whom are now top in their scientific fields!), and crazy adventures he had throughout Africa, including Uganda. 

The following morning we were again up before the sun to join a young German couple on extended holiday for a trek to the Moremi Game Reserve located in the midst of the delta.  After a gorgeous sunrise, the morning again threatened rain but we were fortunate once more that the clouds cleared, revealing the incredible blue sky.  In the park the rainy season showed its effects, with several large water holes full of mud taking up the entire road.  Thank goodness for 4-wheel drive!  On the way in we were informed of one group that had self-navigated through the roads, only to become stuck in the middle of the park and needing to spend the night in the car as no one was available to tow them out.  Yikes!

Fortunately thanks to our guide, Master (known as a master tracker), we navigated the roads just fine and found ourselves on the open plains of the grasslands.  While roaming the green landscape, we spotted a lone lioness in the distance.  When she arose to move, we tracked her until she led us to three more lionesses lounging under the brush.  What a find!  We were feeling so lucky to be able to track and find so many lions, when they suddenly all began to get up and walk slowly in a single file line through the grass.  We were certain they were on the hunt for food, and that one unlucky antelope in the distance was going to be brunch.  After a few minutes of tracking, however, we began to hear the same low grumble that we had heard in Chobe - they were calling their cubs!  Within a minute, 13 cubs came bounding out of the brush to greet the lionesses.  We sat and watched them for what felt like hours as they bonded, played, breastfed, and eventually found shade in the brush.  

With that, it was time to find a lunch spot.  We drove a little ways away from the lions, to plant ourselves right in front of a pond filled with hippos.  Definitely much safer, right?!  Hippos are known to be very territorial, despite their massive size move very quickly on land, and are the greatest animal threat to humans after malaria-carrying mosquitoes.  Awesome.  Throughout the lunch several hippos showed us that we were in their territory by opening their mouths in a giant yawn, revealing their massive teeth and powerful jaws that can snap you in half.  

The rest of the afternoon we found many variations of antelope as well as troops of baboons in the thick brush.  We also encountered a large military truck that was on its way to tow the stuck vehicle we had heard about earlier, only to become trapped in the mud itself due to the massive rains.  Double yikes!


As we drove out of the park, more and more animals seemingly appeared, including a turtle making its way across the road to more water, several bull elephants, and towers of giraffes migrating in the cooler evening hours.  We arrived back at camp just after sunset to enjoy one last meal under the stars.  

On January 13th we began our long 14 hour trek from Botswana to Rwanda, to bring us closer to our home in Uganda!

Recommendations for Travelers:
-We suggest our itinerary in reverse:  Arrive in Maun, explore the Okavango River Delta, and you can even do a longer camping trip, migrating up the delta and into Chobe National Park.  From Chobe, take a day trip over to Zimbabwe and Zambia to see the falls, and return the same day.  

-If spending multiple days near Victoria Falls, purchase the Kaza Visa, which allows multiple entries across the Zimbabwe and Zambia border.  The website states it is available in multiple countries, however other travelers told us the Kaza Visa was not available in Zambia.  We purchased ours on arrival to the Vic Falls Airport in Zimbabwe.


-According to the guide books, a great time to travel to this area is July or August.  It is the dry season in Botswana, meaning animals flock to the central Chobe River, thus increasing sight seeing of animals, but it is not so dry as to become too hot like in September and October.  It is also the time when the waters of Victoria Falls are full yet not so much so that they are obscured by their self-made mist.

-Zimbabwe has some significant economic instability, with the country undergoing massive inflation of its local currency to the point that the currency was eliminated and replaced with the US Dollar in 2008.  Because of this, everyone who had their money in the bank (instead of in a house, cows, or goats) lost all of their savings.  You will find many MANY men on the streets of Vic Falls (and Livingstone in Zambia, we were told) very aggressively hawking souvenirs starting with statuettes and progressing to selling you millions or billions in the now-defunct local currency.  Be forewarned that you will be confronted on the streets several times and by people that it will take saying no to a good 7 times before they will give up the pursuit.

-Skip the boat ride in Zambia - Chobe has loads more to offer.

-All-day game drives are long, with not many animals seen between 10am and 5pm.  Consider staying a few days to enjoy a few morning drives, reading in the afternoon, then heading out for sunset drives; it's a better way to enjoy the wildlife.  That being said, you never know what you will find at any time of day!

-Swim in Devil's Pool!  Absolutely amazing experience

South Africa Part II

December 22, 2016 - January 4, 2017

After a short flight from Pretoria to George, the afternoon of December 22nd found us cruising east on the Garden Route of South Africa, admiring the blue waters of the Indian Ocean that crash into the cliffs dropping off quickly from the continent.  After stopping for an organic salad (with steak) and springbok burger lunch at Zucchini restaurant in the town of Wilderness, we continued east to reach the popular holiday town of Knysna.  The city sits atop a lagoon created from the Knysna River running south into the turquoise ocean.  The city is a popular summer destination, with the Christmas season being one of the busiest in the warm southern hemisphere December.  After settling in at the cute backpacker lodge 52 on Main, we explored a bit of the town on our way to the waterfront.  We were soon on a boat heading through the lagoon toward the two headlands that block the Indian Ocean inlet to the lagoon where many boats of historical lore have met with the rocks to their doom.

The following morning we enjoyed an eggs benedict breakfast with a view at the East Head Cafe before continuing along the Garden Route and returning inland on our way to the lovely town of Montague.  The town itself is tucked away amongst the jagged and rocky landscape, with the road to town passing through a blasted portion of a large rock jutting from the mountain edge.  We stayed at the beautiful Mimosa Lodge, a quaint and tranquil location with a lovely terrace, old world styled bar, and offering a fantastic four course dinner with perfectly paired wines from their own vintner.  Unfortunately no photos taken here, as we were enjoying the atmosphere, delicious food, and refreshing wines.

Our Christmas Eve day started with a delicious breakfast which we walked off by meandering the streets of Montague before traveling toward South Africa's wine country.  The town itself had a few quaint shops, however after walking the few streets, we determined that the real draw for anyone wanting to visit the town was by far the relaxing Mimosa Lodge.  We then drove west through the Robertson wineries, making tasting stops at Arabella, Viljoensdrift, and the bubbly at Graham Beck.  In addition to the beautiful weather, gorgeous scenery, and fantastic wines, tasting had additional perks as we were able to select a few favorite varietals to pack into our little rental car and save for enjoying on other days of our journey.  As we moved west toward more wine country, the road wound through mountainous passes leading to the wine town of Franschhoek, with the town settled in amongst the mountains and green with the many vineyards.  We stopped for a lovely lunch consisting mostly of cheese and bread before continuing on to the final destination of Stellenbosch.  We stayed at The Stellenbosch Hotel in the heart of town, within walking distance to several lovely shops.

Christmas morning was bright, warm and clear, and started with a relaxing morning run through the streets of the town lined with trees and then out of town amongst hilly trails behind Stellenbosch University.  Later, we wandered through town to get a better feel, quickly realizing there was a sharp distinction between the quaint, affluent part of town and the sudden transition to the working and lower class side, with much of the distinction also following a racial divide.

We were sorely missing our families for celebrating Christmas, but as fortunate would have it one of our GHSP Mbale housemates, Julia, was only a 45 minute drive away in Cape Town. We couldn't pass up the opportunity to spend the day with a member of our Peace Corps family so Dennis and I packed up a bottle of wine and set out for the coastal city, making a stop at Speir winery along the way where a multitude of families were picnicking on the green lawn.  

We met up at Julia's hotel, then walked to the Mount Nelson Hotel, also known as the Pink Palace, for a late afternoon Christmas dinner of bubbly and appetizers and lounged in the summertime heat while hotel guests basked by the swanky pool.  

Nearing sunset Dennis and I made our way back to Stellenbosch.  As we drove through the outskirts of the city, overhead electronic road signs read in capital letters, "HIGH CRIME AREA - DO NOT STOP" while we passed the densely packed corrugated metal shanty towns with rows upon rows of houses being supplied with power by seemingly unending rows and rows of electricity poles towering above.  I spent Christmas evening contemplating the extreme economic and racial divide which I was encountering and even participating in firsthand: in Cape Town and Stellenbosch where that divide becomes even more clear as you see such a stark contrast between the airy and bright central part of town filled with wine bars and restaurants where we were staying to the tiny shacks of corrugated metal crammed together with almost no moving room on the outskirts of each town.  

For those traveling to Africa, and specifically South Africa, I highly, Highly, HIGHLY recommend reading the book "Born A Crime: Stories from a South African Childhood" by comedian Trevor Noah, which in straightforward and oftentimes comedic terms outlines the history and its implications of exploration, colonization, discrimination through apartheid, and difficulties transitioning to democracy in South Africa and beyond.  

In spite of the ever-present racial tension and economic divide, we did continue to explore the country and take in as much as we could. 

The following day Dennis and I continued wine tasting in Stellenbosch, stopping at (* = recommended, - = pass in future):
*Avontuur
-Ken Forrester
*Peter Falke
*Webersberg

The wines were fantastic and the green landscape incredibly beautiful.  For dinner that evening we went to The Fat Butcher, where every table was "booked", but they managed to find a table for us next to the upright piano.  The menu was incredible, and the steaks even more amazing, grilled to perfection and served with a whopping side of bone marrow to make the meal decadent.  Paired with a bottle of Syrah wine, we were in heaven.  

On the 27th we left Stellenbosch to continue our trip to Cape Town, though not without a few more stops in wine country including:
-Brenaissance
*Jordan

Jordan was by far the favorite winery visited, a secluded vineyard nestled at the end of a single-lane dirt road, overlooking a small pond.  We sat on the veranda and tasted delicious cheeses alongside homemade bread, olives, and a lovely bottle of Chenin Blanc.  That evening we settled into our cozy Airbnb apartment in the Walmer Estate area, with Devil's Peak towering high overhead.  

The morning of the 28th we started the day with a beautiful morning run along the ocean and continuing toward the touristy, but thankfully not yet open for the day, Victoria and Albert Waterfront.  On the run back we stopped to watch a pod of dolphins playing in the surf.  Later that morning we made our way from Cape Town down the peninsula, stopping first at Boulder's Beach, known for its large penguin population.  That's right, penguins! The beach was filled with the awkward-on-land yet beautiful-and-sleek-in-water birds that cannot fly.  I was giddy and loving every second with them.

We continued south to Cape Point, with a long line of cars waiting to get in to the park.  We were greeted by a friendly park ranger who warned that the wait time to get a parking spot in the park itself could be upwards of 2 hours, and to return on another day much earlier in the morning.  We hedged our bets and continued into the park, encountering a pair of zebra running wild and a troop of baboons, and within a mere 20 minutes we were parked and making our way to the top of the lighthouse at Cape Point.  The view is spectacular, almost a shear drop to the bottom, and water so clear we could see a seal playing in the surf far below.  From the lighthouse we hiked down to the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern most point of Africa and of historical and literary lore in the exploration era traveling around what was then considered to be the southern most point of the continent.  It is rumored that the Cape has some of the best air quality, as the winds travel northward from Antartica.  

For dinner that evening, we had lovely French fare at Bizerca Bistro, highly recommended for future travels.  

The following day we chose to sleep in and relax, then finally started the day in the later afternoon with sushi at Willoughby & Co, before apologizing profusely to the fish swimming around in their tanks at the Two Oceans Aquarium.  Continuing with the down day, we looked for grocery stores to purchase a few simple items for dinner, however encountered the economic divide once again, finding that most of the grocery stores we were frequenting were not in the nicer areas of town, and unfortunately had food that was definitely not of quality or taste value.  It wasn't until the fifth stop in a distinctly better-off area that we were able to find quality fare for munching during a low key movie night.

Friday the 30th of December was an early start for the two hour drive south to the town of Gansbaai, where the mighty Great White sharks can be witnessed firsthand in the South African waters.  Only 30 minutes out into the water, with chum laying the scent and tuna heads as the main bait, we saw our first Great White shark!  As someone who loves Shark Week on The Discovery Channel every August, seeing the shark up close and personal in the wild was a childhood dream come true.  The massive creatures move so efficiently in the water, and their might is impressive up close.  

Once we had seen a few sharks from above the water, it was our turn to get into the cage.  With a wetsuit and goggles on, you jump into the frigid ocean with your head just above water until a shark is sighted and you are told to go down below the surface to see the shark in its own environment.  For the first shark that came our way, the apex predator surprised our guides and the bait was not moved out of the way quickly enough, causing the shark to slam into the cage before swimming off into the deep blue yonder.  The shark hit right in front of where Dennis was positioned, giving him a face full of teeth.  Before hitting the waters we had rented a GoPro, which was essential to capture the incredible creatures on film.  

After a morning with the sharks, we travelled further south to reach the absolute-most southern point of the African continent at Cape L'Agulhas.  The directions took us down a gravel road for over 22km before reaching the town of L'Agulhas.  When pulling into the national park area a passerby graciously pointed out a very flat tire.  In inspecting the car, we also noted a large crack caused from a rock flung up from the road.  Awesome.  Thankfully Dennis had become an expert at changing tires, and this time there were no opportunistic predators for me to look out for.

At the southern-most point, the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic Ocean.  The waters are pristinely clear and blue, with the waves crashing against the rocky shore.  Absolutely worth the cracked windshield and flat tire to get to this point.  After a snack of calamari, battered fish, and chips, we carefully made the three hour drive back to Cape Town.  Once there, we were able to change out the vehicle for a new rental.  Thanks, Thrifty!  Once at home, we enjoyed a bottle of one of our Stellenbosch wines while reviewing the amazing video captured earlier in the day, then sending the video or some select still shots to unsuspecting friends and family.

New Year's Eve day found us hiking up the beautiful and steep Table Mountain that domineers above the city of Cape Town.  After the hour and a half of what felt like sheer vertical climbing up the Plateeklip Gorge, the top of the mountain offered spectacular views of the city and the length of the cape past the Twelve Apostles - 12 peaks in a row - and on to Cape Point.  Spectacular view.  We made the additional hike to Maclears Beacon, offering a trek through the beautiful flora decorating the top of the mountain.  On the way down we took one of the contour routes, walking along a ridge jutting out on the side of the mountain and leading us toward the lower cable station.

Back at our apartment we celebrated the hike and the end to a lovely 2016 by enjoying a bottle of sparkling Rosé with some delicious cheese as our "lunch" before heading out for NYE celebrations.  While getting ready I had an amazing and much needed hour-long catch up session with the lovely Meagan Campol Haynes, a true highlight to end the year.  Later in the evening we made our way to Camp's Bay to enjoy dinner and NYE festivities at a Japanese fusion restaurant called Umi.  As midnight drew near, we were surprised that there was no plan for a countdown, and even more surprised when we began to hear slow waves of cheers coming from outside the restaurant, as each location decided when it was the new year on their own.  There was no Dick Clark's Rockin' New Years Eve countdown, no ball dropping in Times Square to mark the beginning of 2017.  It would be over 8 hours until that would be happening in New York City.  We kissed and toasted to the new year while watching the fireworks display over the waterfront as the streets came alive with revelers.  When we joined the throngs of people on the street, there were numerous people begging, holding out Coca-Cola cups to pick up coins from the drunken good will pouring out from the bars and restaurants.

New Year's Day was relaxing, with a short venture to the Gardens district for brunch at Knead and a stroll around Company Gardens before returning to the cool apartment to escape the heat and enjoy some wine for an easy day of catching up on journaling.

On Monday the 2nd we drove out of town around False Bay and took the scenic R44 drive with the mountains dropping sharply on the left and the vast blue ocean bay on the right.  It is one of the most beautiful coastal routes we have ever driven, rivaling the famed Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Los Angeles.  There are signs and stop-off points along the road to enjoy the view, as well as whales during the birthing season from June through November.  But the real destination for this outing? A large colony of penguins that reside at Betty's Bay.  There were far fewer crowds here, and with the amazing backdrop of the steep and majestic mountains.  


Food recommendations for the day:
-Sotano for breakfast/brunch with a great view of of Green Point and the ocean beyond.
-A stand near the penguin colony served up some of the most delicious calamari.
-Hussar Grill: chain in western South Africa.  Tasty steaks, although nothing can live up to Stellenbosch's Fat Butcher.


The next day we explored the historical parts of Cape Town, beginning in City Bowl with the District Six Museum, dedicated to the former inner-city residential area in Cape Town. Over 60,000 of its inhabitants were forcibly removed during the 1970s by the apartheid regime. We fed our minds with caffeine from Truth Coffee and our stomachs with dumplings from I Love Laundry, a laundry facility that also makes amazing vegetarian and carnivore friendly fare.

We continued the historical tour to the Bo-Kaap neighborhood, a multicultural neighborhood with a predominantly Malaysian as well as Islamic influence and a background of brightly colored, tightly packed houses, and cobblestone streets. We sampled some of Malaysian food at Biesmiellah Restaurant, with a perfect view of the Tweede Newe Jaar, or second new year minstrel celebration, parading by. There was music, dancing, and everyone wearing bright neon costumes and carrying equally bright umbrellas. The evening found us at a lovely outdoor cafe, sipping a glass of wine and reading while watching the sun slowly set in the distance.



Wednesday, January 4th marked our last day in Cape Town. I took advantage of the spa facilities with a facial and pedicure before afternoon brunch at Truth Coffee.  We then drove toward Signal Hill for a beautiful view of the Atlantic, watching paragliders jumping off the hillside and cascading down toward Sea Point below.  After a relaxing afternoon at Camp's Bay, our last fantastic Cape Town meal was Spanish cuisine at La Boheme, once again taking one of the last available, not booked tables in the restaurant. The food was fantastic so we're adding it to our list of highly recommended restaurants for future Cape Town visits.



That evening we packed up our gear and prepared for the early morning flight to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe!

Learn from us!  Lessons gained from travel in South Africa and Swaziland:
-If planning more than 5 days of national parks in South Africa, look into purchasing a WILD! national park card.  National parks include Kruger, Cape Point, and Table Mountain amongst many others.
-Game drives for animals require a lot of time sitting in the car.  Coupled with road-tripping through South Africa it is A LOT of time in the car.  Plan active outings in between long days of sitting.  Get the humans out of the mobile cage :)
-A 4 x 4 or larger vehicle is preferred on dirt/gravel roads, otherwise make sure to go slow - prevent getting flat tires!
-Having one day at the luxurious tree camp followed by three days on our own/with SAN Parks trekking through Kruger was the perfect amount of time.
-Stay longer in Swaziland - the country is beautiful, with a lot to offer in regard to adventure activities.  We would have LOVED more time here.
-Skip the Garden Route and spend more time in wine country.  Purchasing wine you liked to enjoy later in the trip is amazing.
-Cape Town: rent a car, schedule all out of town activities in sequential days, then return the car and use Uber to get around the city.  Uber was very easy to use, safe, and far less expensive than renting a car.  Lesson learned.
-Book restaurants well in advance, ESPECIALLY during the busy summer/Christmas season.  Restaurants in South Africa are very different from the U.S. - once a table is booked, it is booked for the evening.  There is no turning-over tables as quickly as possible, but rather restaurants focus on sitting and enjoying the meal for the entire evening.
-Ensure to have small bills or coins on hand to tip parking attendants - people (sometimes official, sometimes unofficial) that guide you to an open parking spot, directing traffic as needed for you to get into the spot, and "keeping an eye" on your car when you are out and about.
-Planning days to do nothing, or planning a day specifically for laundry is essential during a long trip.  Seriously.
-Dennis and I had a Sawyer water filter that we used to filter water into our own bottles along the way - great to prevent purchasing multitudes of plastic bottles.  Would recommend bringing one larger than our little 16 oz filter.
-If living in Uganda for one year, enjoying the delicious red meat, seafood, raspberries, wine, bread, and other deliciousness in South Africa/Swaziland is amazing!